In 1955, the Moulin Rouge was a sensation in Las Vegas, and it wasn’t even on the Strip. It was the first de-segregated casino and hotel in town, and led the way for all the others. But it’s flame burned only briefly, and now – after years of different owners, fires and neglect, but now it’s an empty lot, the sign is at the Neon Boneyard, and all is quiet except for the ghosts of the past. But there is still gambling there for one day, every two years. Why and how? We went to see it all, and I wrote about it for SFGate.